I know this post has been hotly anticipated and fear not, the wait is over. Make sure you've got a good chunk of time to dedicate to it, because it is thorough. I promise from here on out I'll make a post at least weekly.
So, without further ado, here is a sum of my life for the past fourteen days.
Plane Travel, July 12-14
So my first travel day was hectic. We got to the airport on time and I checked in. Said goodbye to the folks and then went through security. I waited a while at my gate to board, saw a cute guy on the other end of the lounge, made eye contact, then his wife and kid showed up. It happens.
So I get on the flight and sit next to a nice man named Roger. He talked to me a lot, and was very friendly. That, or a pathological liar. And it was equally as likely he was either. Didn’t matter much. The first drink cart came through and I asked for a ginger ale. Once she gave it to me, I asked what the policy was about drinking alcohol over the Atlantic and she said I could have a drink now. I said I’d just wait, but she said, “Oh, no. Have one now. What would you like?” I got a Carlsberg and reminisced about having my first pint in Liverpool. I sat back and took it in. Free flowing booze and the fresh scent of B.O. Ahhh, to be in Europe again.
I watched Hot Fuzz which was hilarious and then tried to sleep. Most of the flight was spent trying, and I only slept for three or so hours. I didn’t feel like trying to concentrate on a new movie, so I watched the end half of Blades of Glory. It’s not any better the second time around.
We landed in Heathrow at about 1:30 local time, after having been in a holding pattern for fifteen minutes. Once we’re on the ground, we’re held up again, as the plane that’s in our spot hasn’t left yet due to technical problems. So we wait. And we wait. And we wait. The next thing I know, it’s 3:00 and 3:30 and then we finally start to move. We’re taken to the terminal where it’s more waiting and then we have to go through security, which sucked because I had to do the whole shoes, hoodie, laptop dance again. Then I headed to my terminal. I grab the first payphone I can find to call my folks. I can’t figure out how to work the damn phone card or the machine, and I may very well have spent four hundred pounds just trying to make a single call. After speaking with my mom briefly, I try to call Nadia at NMMU, to see if I have someone to pick me up at the airport tomorrow, but no such luck—the number doesn’t work. I get a coffee and sit down and try to sift through all the phone card crap.
So I’m tired and stressed and frustrated and hungry, so I call my mom again (the phone card works this time) and let her know that I couldn’t get through to Nadia and that I’ll have to totally wing it in Port Elizabeth. But talking and thinking about things upset me, so I went to the bathroom to stave off a panic attack. “Bootstraps, Lara,” I think to myself. “Bootstraps.” So, I change my jeans (since my Bermuda shorts left me freezing on the last flight) and do my hair a different way and brush my teeth and put Leonard (my lucky army man) in my pocket and walk out, feeling like a whole new woman. I exchange some money for Rands and find the British Airways customer service desk to ask about baggage and check in for my connection flight from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth. Then I walk around a bit and then find a seat, and here I sit, writing this. I’ve twenty or thirty minutes before I find out what gate I’m flying out of, and I’m trying to hack into some wireless. To no avail.
A while before boarding began, I headed to my gate in Heathrow and sat and waited. We boarded all at once and I found my seat. Then I saw two random guys about my age come to put their bags in the compartments by me. The blonde one told me he was seated in the middle and that his friend was seated in the middle on the opposite end of the row. I took pity on them and gave up my seat so they could sit together. They were very thankful though, and the black haired one called me a superstar. They were cute.
It did admittedly suck to be stuck in the middle, and it sucked for ten and a half hours. I watched Disturbia, which was pretty much terrible, made even more terrible by the fact that the magazine described it as a reworking of Rear Window. I just recently watched Rear Window with Julia, and it was excellent, and no matter how cute Shia LaBeouf is, he’s never going to be Jimmy Stewart.
I had another Carlsberg before dinner was served and once it went straight to my head, I realized how long it had been since my last substantial food. Dinner was finally served, and I had a dish called cottage pie. I actually really liked it and have already started thinking of ways I could reinvent it to make it better. I slept a fair amount on that flight, which will hopefully get me on a good path toward adjusting quickly. I woke up just as the next round of movies was coming on and watched the Bourne Identity. I’m excited for the Bourne Ultimatum to come out.
Breakfast was served an hour or so before landing, and I was happy to find it was a traditional English breakfast. Although I did notice the lack of beans on toast. Who’d have ever thought I’d love English food so much? Anyway, we began our descent at about 6:30 South African time, just as the sun was rising. I have to say, it was a magnificent way to start my time here.
After we de-planed, we got on a shuttle that took us to the terminal. It was pretty cold out in the morning, 41, but I expect it will warm up as the day goes on. Of course, I always recognize that a trip where nothing goes wrong is a trip Lara never has, so I got held up for fifteen minutes because they couldn’t read the code on my study permit in my passport. I just thank God I got both my bags out and that customs was a breeze. Once through, a man in an orange jumpsuit (one of many in the terminal) grabbed one of my bags and asked where I was headed. Suddenly I realized that ultimately he was expecting a tip, and as much as it would have sucked to drag my two big ass bags all the way to the other terminal, I didn’t like being swindled like that.
I hadn’t been there twenty minutes and I was already the dumb American.
So he took me to check in and I had to break change to give him a stupid tip. He was blind in one eye and missing teeth, so I just pretended that it was more like charity than theft. Once I checked my bags, I wandered around and called my folks. Still no news on what the H is happening when I get to PE, but I can’t do anything at this point. I ate some almonds to keep my blood sugar level and drank a coke for the caffeine. Then I finally made my way through security so I could come sit here at my gate for the final leg of my journey.
Already they’ve had some shops with toys and jewelry and trourist-y accoutrements and I have a feeling this trip is going to break the bank. I’ve also seen a bunch of adorable baby stuff so I’m really excited to shop for Robert. All this in the airport alone! I have to pace myself.
The traveling has beat the hell out of my body. I’m sore and feeling unwell and ready to be settled. God willing it’ll all come together. We finally boarded and I’ve never known cabin fever quite like I did when I strapped in. I felt like I’d been staring at the same scenery for the past two days. Most likely because I pretty much had. It was an agonizing hour and a half and I was positively exhausted.
By the time I got off the plane, I was borderline delirious, but I was using all my energy to will a chauffer into existence. He would be handsome and tall and South African and he’d have my name spelled correctly on a placard and he would help me put my bags in the back and he would let me ride shotgun. But then I walked around the airport aimlessly for twenty minutes, hoping against hope before I grabbed a cab driven by an old man named Johnny with a dirty goatee and glasses. But he got me to Rubin safely, and that counted for something.
Meeting everyone in the house was a total blur and I knew it’d be a while before I actually retained all their names and information. A lot of the girls were from St. Cloud State in Minnesota, and everyone was nice and welcoming. I put my bags in an empty room and chatted. I wanted to stave off sleep so I could make quick work of the time zone adjustment.
I walked with one of the St. Cloud girls, Laura to the Spar (a supermarket/pharmacy type place) a few blocks away and picked up Chinese for dinner. We socialized a bit more, but I was ready for bed, and hit the hay by 10.
Being a Tourist, July 15
Sunday we were up at a decent hour and headed out in a big group to the flea market. I took the time to get to know Manka better. She’s been in the house for four years and she’s from Kenya. She’s a good person to have around, because she’s so laid back and easy to talk to. The flea market itself was amazing. They have every size and shape of wooden carved animals, that I’ve pretty much decided I’ll have to bring home a whole zoo of them. Especially the giraffes. They’re awesome. And I’ve already been looking for stuff for the Weird Wall back home, and there’s no shortage. Manka was a huge help too, because most of the vendors were Kenyan, so if she thought they were ripping us off, she’d talk to them in Swahili and coax them down on the price. Indispensible.
Afterwards, we went to lunch at this local chain called Nando’s. We had chicken burgers and fries, and it was pretty delicious. We walked a few blocks down to Happy Valley and walked through. It’s the strangest place, filled with little scenes of Disney characters all over. It really was a pretty happy valley, but Manka warned us that after dark, they call it Death Valley. So I’ve certainly noted that.
We walked down to the Pick n Pay which is a lot like our Spar. They were out of converters in that shopping area, so I hit the internet café to check up on things. We took a taxi home and hung around for a while. Then some of my housemates wanted to go to Annie’s Cove because they were having a brai and we decided to crash it. So I decided I’d go hang out for a while and be social. When we got there, I went to say hey to Tyler (another St. Cloud kid) and he was standing with some Germans. I met them—Lars, Sofie, and Robert—and they were very funny. I right away just started calling them the Crazy Germans. I was drawn to Robert, mostly because he was tall (1.92 meters, whatever that means. I think he’s about 6’3”). Suddenly, this other crazy German showed up, named Hannes. They joked about him living in the pool house, so I dubbed him Pool Boy.
A while later, we were all standing around and in passing, I mentioned having lived in Germany and that I was young so all I really remembered was how to count. Robert told me to count, and I did. I felt I did quite impressively for not having practiced in eight years, but that may just be me. Also, the whole night, I went around breaking up German cliques and saying “English please! Stop speaking German!” They are such a fun bunch.
It was getting late, so we went back to Rubin and I went to bed.
My First Official Brai and Karaoke Night, July 16
Monday afternoon, I went with Angie to shop for a brai we were having that night. She’s leaving on Wednesday, so we are throwing her a goodbye party.
So we stocked up on food and booze and went back to the homestead. At about 4:00, Marissa, Angie, Manka and I started cooking together and we also started drinking. Manka marinated the meat while I boiled pasta and cut up veggies for a pasta salad. A few hours later, people started showing up, and we kept drinking. Tyler was the only person I knew who had the Germans’ numbers so I spent I don’t know how many hours harassing him to call them. I was completely wasted by 8:00 and the Germans didn’t think they were coming for a few hours still. Lars and his crew arrived between 9:30 and 10:00. I talked to him for a long time. First, his English is pretty excellent. Also, I told him how Alex calls me Lars, so now we’re kind of a team. He’s adorable.
A group of us decided to head to a bar called Captain’s for karaoke. We went back to wait in the living room with the rest, and I sat down between Pool Boy and Robert on the couch. I made Robert promise to sing a song with me at karoke and he said he would. The three of us decided to wait on the porch for the cabs. They pulled out a bottle of wine and gave me some. The cab arrived and I realized that of my crew, I was the last man standing. So I chugged my wine and jumped in.
So we get to Captain’s and Robert and I go over to look for a song for us to sing. I ask what his favorite kind of music is and he says rap and hip hop. His favorite artist is Jay-Z, which made me laugh out loud. So he keeps suggesting rap songs that I either don’t know at all or don’t know well enough to sing with him. Then all of a sudden, he sees it.
Aerosmith. I Don’t Wanna Miss A Thing.
So we put in our names and a while later, the MC calls our names and we go up onstage. I don’t even think about how I sound or look, I just kind of belt it out drunkenly, as you’re supposed to at places like these. At any rate, it was epic, and he ended it on one knee with a hand out to me.
I found out that Hannes had thrown up, so I rounded up Robert and told him we should get going. Hannes said he would walk and I refused to let him. I tried to plead Robert into convincing Hannes otherwise, but nothing worked. He didn’t want to pay for a cab, and wouldn’t let me pay for him. I tried to reason with them, that I have to take a cab either way and they live on the way so it makes no difference.
Finally, Duncan (a local) came over and I asked if he would please tell them to take a taxi and he straight faced, seriously looked at them and said, “Take a cab.” I turned to thank him and the next second, Robert and Pool Boy have split. I ran after them and saw them just down the road. I considered getting a cab myself and leaving them, but took off my shoes and jogged to catch up. This is the part where I chewed them out. I literally stood in front of them and just yelled for two minutes straight about how stupid and stubborn they were being. They made excuses but none were worth anything. Robert ended up reasoning with me to walk with them to Robert’s place just down the road and then we’d catch a cab from there. So they called one for me and we started walking again. As we passed Happy Valley, Hannes pointed it out and I told them what Manka had said. They didn’t believe me, so I said, “If you get raped and killed it’s your own damn fault.”
Robert’s only response was: “I would like to be raped by a pretty South African girl.” I had to laugh, but they were being jerkfaces. I got into the cab, and Hannes wouldn’t come so now I had to ride in a cab alone. Gee thanks guys. To make matters worse, the guy got lost and it ended up costing me R10 more than it should have. Frick, I was mad.
As soon as I got home, I put out clothes for the next day and passed out.
Orientation, July 17-19
Two hours later, I woke before my alarm to get ready for orientation. I realized promptly that I was still drunk and had the sinking feeling I’d be drunk for a while. I went through the motions dizzy and giggly, but made it out okay. At noon, they had a drum performance by an African group. Sometimes, like when I’m getting drunk and socializing, it’s easy to forget I’m in Africa, but then things like the monkeys that live on campus will remind me.
The rest of the afternoon went without event, and I went to bed early to catch up.
The campus tour on Wednesday was all but useless, but I guess it was good exercise. We reconvened at the International Office to head for the buses for our first excursion. Jessica, one of the Minnesota girls who lives at Annie’s Cove, and I sat together and became bus buddies. We sat in front of our German friends. The bust was hot, so I reached up to open the window, but it was jammed. So I turned around and asked if one of the strapping young men could open it for me. Robert leaned over and put one finger on the handle as if he was going to do it like that. He said, “Should I take my shirt off?” We laughed when he had to stand up and use both hands and still couldn’t get it.
The guide was really hard to understand, so I don’t know any more about the history of PE than I ever did before, but I do know we stopped at this huge tower and I made the dumb decision to climb to the top, all 204 steps. It was just like the Arc d’Triomphe. But I guess I can say now I’ve done it, whatever it was.
We went to Sardinia Bay next, and I finally set foot in the Indian Ocean. It was cold, but it was beautiful. They had fish and chips for dinner and set up volleyball, soccer, and human foosball for us to play. On the bus ride back, they passed out a cup of sherry for everyone, which was seemed such a strange thing to do, but I drank it. They dropped us off at a corner and we walked home. Once again, I pretty much headed straight for bed.
I got on the bus Thursday morning with Jessica and we drove about a half hour out of our nice clean pleasant suburb into a township called Red Location. When the apartheid laws came into effect, this is where all the Africans were forced to move. I’ve seen pictures and video of places like this, shanties and shacks made up of practically nothing, everything ramshackle, rusty and dirty, but it was a strange change of pace to actually be there and see the people. It was so funny too, because as we drove by, all these people, families, would come out of their homes and smile and wave at us. Everyone was so good-natured.
Our ultimate destination was the Red Location Museum that basically housed the history of the area, as well as its contextual value to the rest of the apartheid era in South Africa. I walked through and looked at the dates of these events and the new housing that the government was building for the residents of the area, real housing with windows and floors, only just began in early 2001. We learn about the Civil Rights Movement in school, but this stuff is so real here. There are still people here living in segregation, and you can say they live there voluntarily, and yes some do choose to stay, but it’s because they don’t know any other way, because their parents didn’t know any other way.
The museum exhibits were designed in a strange way. It was basically two rows of a bunch of columns that were probably ten by ten and each column had a door and a room inside with artifacts or photographs or replicas of something or other. I went in a few of these rooms (the power was out in the museum so some of the things were difficult to see) and the first one I went into had several nooses hanging from the ceiling. Stacked all along the walls of the room were small boxes that had labels indicating files in them. Each one had a name, a cause of death, and results of an inquiry into their deaths. Every single one of them had some variant of “no one found responsible”. Men and women who were shot, beaten, hanged, essentially murdered and their own police force were the culprits.
Our guide told us stories about how when Mandela and his contemporaries finally started to fight the apartheid laws, the police became even stricter with the blacks. If they ever saw more than one person protesting alone, they could be arrested because the government was afraid they would organize an opposition. One striking example is the Langar Massacre. There was a gathering in the community, I believe for a funeral, one day in the streets, and the police saw it and though it’s unclear what happened to incite it, the police opened fire and killed some two or three dozen people and wounded many more. The official police report that was released said that the group that was organizing started throwing rocks and the police were acting only in retaliation. But photos taken shortly after the even show few rocks in the vicinity. There are accounts of people who were wounded that lay there, pretending to be dead, while the police walked through to check for survivors to shoot them again. One man was kicked in the head several times until he passed out and another pretending to be dead was shot again, in the foot. It was a pretty intense museum, but it’s good to know the history of the area in which you are staying.
Just before we left, we met these two old men who told us about what life was really like in these townships. They said that if you wanted to go into town, you had to have identification on you and if you didn’t, you could be arrested. Also, at about quarter to 9, a siren would sound that basically said, if you’re black, you better get out, or else you could be taken to jail for three months. It’s frightening how recent all this is in the minds of men like this.
The next stop was Bayworld where we saw a dolphin show, and I got to volunteer and help out. We walked through the little aquarium and saw the penguins and seals and then ate lunch. After that, they dropped us off at Green Acres, a mall, where I finally got a phone and converters. A bunch of the girls from the house took a taxi home and it was like party central. The music was so loud and there were, I’m not kidding, 23 people in that van. It was crazy. Jessica, Hiromi and I went to the Boardwalk to ask about safaris then to Pick n Pay to get another converter. Jessica and I walked home, which is a bit of a hike, but it’s nice.
Emily’s Birthday and Meeting my First Two South African Boys, July 19-20
That night, we went out for Emily’s birthday, and since she lives in the house, a whole crew of us went. We ate dinner at Primi’s first, which was pretty good, then headed upstairs to Giovani’s for drinks. The best part about being there was getting to know the bartender. He was one of three, and by far the cutest one, so I felt a little bad for the others, but not too bad. Anyway, he was a local and his name was David and I’m pretty sure he had a collective crush on all of us girls. Although looking at us, who wouldn’t?
I realized we were going to hang out here for a while before we headed over to the Boardwalk and the Casino, so I ordered a Beck’s and talked to Laura and David. He poured about ten shots and passed them around and I asked what he was giving us. “Liquid cocaine,” he said. This made me nervous, but I’d had a beer at dinner and another here, so I wasn’t interested in nerves. “That’s what we call a friendly welcome to PE.” At any rate, David was such a sweetheart, I’m certain we’ll frequent Giovani’s during our stay here. We finally left there around ten and one of our old housemates gave us a ride down to the Casino.
We walked inside and it was huge; I’d not been there before and it was really very nice. We made a pit stop in the bathroom before we headed into the club, then made our way down to the bar. I got myself a Castle and bought Keilani a mixed drink. I noticed some international students there, so I wanted to walk around and see who was out, so I enlisted Keilani to walk with me. The place was packed, but once we got away from the bar, we were able to breathe.
Apparently karaoke is really popular here, because this was karaoke night here too. We watched the performances and laughed at most of them, until some guy got up there and sang “Sweet Child of Mine.” First of all, he did an excellent air guitar. And on top of it, he could actually sing. I said so to Keilani and the guys standing next to us heard me and interjected, “He’s a professional actor.” We talked to them for a bit while we watched their friend perform and it was kind of evident they were trying to talk him up. Why I don’t know, considering there were two of us and two of them, and bringing in their (much cuter) friend didn’t seem smart to me, but what do I know? So he finally made his way off stage and came up to where we were standing.
I introduced myself and we got to talking, and he was really friendly. He’s 22 and a local, but goes to school in Cape Town. I saw a tattoo on his forearm and of course, like a drunkass, I reach out so I can read it and hit my hand right on his cigarette. I apologized and said don’t worry, that it was my fault. He said, “You have to remember me forever now.” At any rate, the tattoo was in Latin and I asked what it said. “Jesus is coming…Look busy.” I laughed and said, “No really…” And I’ll be a monkey’s uncle if I don’t forget what it actually said, but I know it’s the first half of his family crest. He said his last name is Scottish, so that’s what it comes from. Anyway, Keilani and I ran down to the bar to check on the other girls and I got a fresh pint.
Laura had signed us up for karaoke for Emily’s birthday, so Keilani and I were on the lookout for when they headed up onstage. When we saw them, we ran down and followed. Earlier, Mat said that when he went up to sing, he twirled the mic and the guy running the thing said that if he did that again, he’d be off the stage. I told Mat not to take it to heart, since that old guy probably lives for karaoke night and he takes it very seriously. One of his friends told me that the guy was just a creepy old guy who likes to hit on young girls and I said I’d be sure to keep away from him, and thanks for the advice. So anyway, when we get up to the stage, some guy at the stairs tells me that only four are allowed onstage at a time, so I have to wait in the wing. They start singing Rihanna’s “Umbrella” which I freaking hate, and I was glad I didn’t have to get up there since I don’t know the words. So this other creepy guy in the stairwell, I guess he’s creepy guy’s sidekick, asks where I’m from and where the girls are from and tells me I’m pretty for someone from California. Thankfully, Emily comes offstage halfway through and says she’s too drunk to do that, so I run up there. I realize I don’t know any of the words outside of the chorus, so I just do a little dance. I was lucky since it was the end of the song and pretty much at the part where they just repeat the chorus, so I dance and sing with the girls and curtsy when it’s over. I grab my beer and go back up to Mat to hang out.
He didn’t understand why we’d come to PE to study, when there are so many other great places we could be. He mentioned that he’s not been to the U.S. but he’s always been fascinated by it since he was a kid. So I explained that’s why I’m here—because I’ve been to Asia and Europe and wanted to see something else. He did say he was going to Aspen (I think) in December, so I told him if he wants to come out, I’ll be in California. He took down my name and said he’d facebook me and then took my phone and punched in his number.
Laura came up to us and grabbed Keilani and said, “Emily’s gonna puke, so we’ve got to go.” I looked at Keilani and said that I didn’t really want to go yet. I didn’t want to stay too much longer, but I still had a third of a beer left and I was having fun. She and I agreed to stay and get a cab in a bit. We only hung out for another half hour or so before getting a cab and getting home, after which I promptly passed out.
Registration and classes begin, July 20-25
Thankfully, an uneventful day. I got registered for all five classes I wanted to take and spent the rest of the day hanging out. My classes are as follows:
Term 3: Democratization and State Transformation, Health Psychology, and State, Society, and Economy in Africa
Term 4: Theory of International Relations and Psychopathology
The first days of classes went very well. DST seems like it will be fairly easy and straightforward. The teacher is not shy about her distaste for the west’s aggressive way of pushing their form of democracy on everyone else even though she’s got Americans in the class, so that’s good. I am nervous about debating in class though—I don’t want to be seen as overbearing or haughty just because I’m American. I’ll temper it and see how it goes. Psychology is great as usual. Every time I take a class in psych, it reminds me that this is where I belong. African politics will be tough because it involves loads of current events that I’m just not that familiar with in the states. I’m going to need to do a great deal of reading to get up to speed. I expect to be challenged, and that’s exactly what I was hoping for.
If you want pictures but haven't gotten them, email me or my mom and one of us can get them to you. I've only got a few so far, but it's a taste.
Love and miss you all, and thanks for caring.
Till next time.....